[Photo: tomohuynh]

Many journalists have recently depicted the city of Detroit as a dilapidated slum, a rotting carcass of a former booming metropolis. In many respects, they are right. However, as a metro Detroit native, it’s very clear to me that these outside critics weren’t hungry and didn’t get the whole story.

Any local food lover knows the Motor City is chock full of options for delicious fare, any history buff knows Motown’s past goes much further back than Berry Gordy, and any city resident knows Detroit is really a clustering of vastly different neighborhoods. When combined, these elements make for a unique dining experience, always rich in flavors, tradition, and identity. In order to eat your way through Detroit, it stands to reason you’ll also have to gnaw on a bit of history. From one end of the city to the other, you can always find a great bite to eat, or a cold pint to drink. During each course, you can sample snippets of a complex web of antiquity: sometimes dark, sometimes bright, but consistently full of pride.

Corktown is the oldest remaining neighborhood in Detroit, and earned its name from the Irish potato famine in the 1840s when many Irishmen fled County Cork. Some settled in the city, and although 150 years have brought different groups to the area, the name “Corktown” stuck, so has some Irish flavor. Nestled into this community is Mudgie’s Deli, a bright orange artisan sandwich shop where you can pick from great menu options, constantly updated specials, or if nothing suits your fancy, you can make your own. If your creation gets enough raving reviews, they’ll make it a special. Proprietor Greg Mudge honors the sense of Corktown’s history, saying it’s their building space that sets Mudgie’s apart. “It’s almost a hundred years old, it’s still the original countertop we use.” It was first a grocery store for neighborhood residents, in keeping with this spirit, he explains, they concentrate on using as many local products as possible. Above all else, Mudge is most excited to be a thriving part of Corktown. He couldn’t be happier to see that “the oldest neighborhood in the city is finding a way to reinvent itself after the closing of its mainstay, Tigers Stadium.”

Another enclave now becoming known for its reincarnation is Southwest Detroit. When I spoke with Lidia , the self-titled “family member/manager/everything” at Vince’s, she told me, “people are investing in the neighborhood, so it has staying power.” Her parents opened Vince’s in 1960 and even after fifty years, they “still make authentic Italian food the good old fashioned way, from scratch.” Everyone who works at Vince’s is a family member, and they all pride themselves on the quality. It shows. Anyone eating there should prepare for truly out-of-this-world homemade pizza and pasta, although you definitely can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. Like Lidia’s father, many immigrants were initially drawn to Detroit for jobs, especially because of Henry Ford’s generous $5 a day wage offer in nearby Highland Park. Since his River Rouge complex was in close proximity to the Southwest Detroit community, an ethnically diverse group populated the area from the start. The blue-collar presence remains strong, but there has recently been an influx of people (mostly of Hispanic descent) coming into the neighborhood.

Due to this Hispanic wave, Southwest Detroit is now often called Mexicantown. In the heart of this area lies Las Brisas, a bustling restaurant famous for its authenticity and upbeat atmosphere. All weekend long live music is a staple, from traditional Mariachi to more modern acts, Thursdays through Sundays are a constant party. I knew about the music, but I wanted to hear an employee’s take on it. When I called and asked what the best part of having music was, Melissa, an employee, replied, “it’s still a family atmosphere. It’s not just one age group. Going from young to old, it’s wonderful to have so many ages together in one space, and everyone has fun. That’s really special.” Her sentiments about the music mimic all the residents’ opinions about their own little Mexicantown more generally: family-oriented and rooted in cultured tradition but gracefully embracing a bright future.

Such optimism was not initially felt by El Barzóne’s executive chef/owner Norberto Garita when he recently opened his restaurant, located just barely on the Detroit side of the Detroit-Dearborn border. He gushed to me in his thick, saucy accent, “I never thought it would be this big. I always intended it to be small.” Any humble intentions had to be placed on the back burner. Garita’s interesting combination of two kinds of cuisine, Italian and Pueblo (southern Mexican), has made his restaurant a booming force for those with a discerning palate and a love of spice. For a restaurant where every dish is made from scratch, Garita said it was hard to pick a favorite. He settled on a crowd-pleaser, his signature mole pablano made a little bit differently by every chef. He told me “we only use two types of chiles, but there are eighteen ingredients… it’s a difficult sauce.” Garita also expected his clientele to come from within the heart of the city due to its location. Pleasantly surprised, he informed me that most of his patrons are from the metro area, all coming into Detroit for a solid meal. As a positive change, the formerly fearful are transforming into the optimistically adventurous. The suburbanites have not come back to Detroit (except for sports) since the race riots… until now. With regeneration, this return is happening more frequently. Obviously for a meal as amazing as you’ll find here, making the trip is deemed “worth it” by the Metro-ites. I can’t say I blame them.

Also worth the trip into the city is a Saturday shopping experience at Eastern Market. In existence since 1891, Detroit’s historic public market is still the nation’s largest. On any given Saturday, customers can stroll through the area and visit roughly 150 vendors who sell a little bit of everything. It doesn’t get any fresher than this, from flowers to fruit, handmade items to honey, clients can purchase a wide variety of goods. If you’re nearby, make sure to stop in at Zef’s Coney Island, one place to enjoy this Detroit specialty item. Coney dogs  – hot dogs smothered in chili, mustard, and onions – are to Detroit as cheese steak is to Philly, jambalaya is to N’awlins, or crepes are to Paris. A stop in the city wouldn’t be complete without a Coney Island, our own culinary geographical marker, whether you’re just in town for the day, or you’ve lived here your whole life.

For many years another Detroit geographical marker was the Grand Trunk Railroad station. Now, the building where tickets were sold since the turn of the 20th century is home to the Grand Trunk Pub. Sandwiched between Campus Martius and Hart Plaza (both outdoor recreational areas), this so-called “Downtown Proper” venue is the perfect blend of old-fashioned and modern elements. Not only does their vaulted, original ceiling make the restaurant unique, so too does its incredible beer selection. As Dave, the bar manager told me, they “only do Michigan microbrews for drafts, which we have fifteen of, and there’s also anywhere from eighty to a hundred Michigan-made beers in bottles at any given time.” To top it off, the full food menu also features Michigan products, even chips and drinks from companies such as Better Made and Faygo. Dave explained, “Wherever we can, it’s a Michigan-based, locally-produced product.” For a good time year-round, check out the two blocks surrounding the pub. The area plays host to a majority of Detroit’s outdoor activities, festivals, and events.

It seems silly to discuss this great city at length without at least mentioning the Cultural Center. As the resonant pulse for the heart of Detroit, this area of museums, schools, music halls, and architectural features serve to educate, entertain and eclipse the imagination of residents and visitors. Influenced by intellectual and artistic mediums, the original three buildings were the Detroit Public Library, the Detroit Institute of Arts and the Horace H. Rackham Education Memorial Building. Now, the area is comprised of many more museums, galleries and theaters, not to mention Wayne State University and the College for Creative Studies. Right in the middle of it is the Majestic: an all-in-one theater, restaurant, bowling alley, nightclub and performance space. The Majestic Café features an eclectic menu (all items for under $15), a varied live lineup, and local artists’ work on display throughout the dining room. Joe, the café’s executive chef, loves this Midtown area for its combination of different cultural elements. He also can’t get enough of the Mahi Mahi Tacos they serve.

While all of these hotspots are wonderful and unique with delicious food and exceptional service, the reason to eat in (or come to) Detroit isn’t for any of the aforementioned. Detroit’s true gem, culinary or otherwise, is the community living and thriving here. As Dave from Grand Trunk reflected, “it’s a large city with a small town feel, it’s very homey and friendly.” As much as I agree with him, I truly think Greg Mudge of Mudgie’s Deli summed it up perfectly, plain and simple. When I asked him to explain what makes the city of Detroit so incredibly special, and what sets it apart from other great cities, he answered me immediately with two incredibly powerful words: “Its people.” -Leah Moss