Mark Peel Says: Linguine with clams is another traditional Italian-American restaurant dish that was wonderful in its original incarnation but was often abused, and eventually became a cliché. Make it right and it’s a brilliant combination of briny clams, pungent garlic, spicy olive oil, dry white wine and chewy pasta. This is the “white†version of the dish, meaning it has no tomatoes.
Linguine and Clams
4 Servings
36 Littleneck or Cherrystone clams, or 48 manila clams, purged
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 fat garlic cloves, halved, green shoots removed, and minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 dried chile pepper (preferably Japanese)
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3/4 pound linguine
Begin heating a large pot of water for the pasta.
In a wide skillet over high heat, combine 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, one of the garlic cloves, the white wine, and the chile. Add the clams and bring to a boil. Cover and cook 3 to 5 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, until the clams begin to open up. Remove the open clams from the pan, using tongs, and place in a bowl. Discard any clams that have not opened. Remove the pan from the heat.
Allow the clams to cool, then remove the meat from the clam shells, holding them over the pan to catch the juices. Rinse briefly to rid them of any lingering sand, and cut in half or chop coarsely. Rinse out the bowl and strain the liquid in the pan through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into the bowl. Set aside.
Heat the remaining olive oil in the pan in which you cooked the clams over medium-high heat and add the garlic. Cook, stirring, until fragrant and just beginning to color, about 30 seconds to a minute. Add the cooking liquid from the clams. Bring to a simmer. Taste and add salt as needed and about 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Keep at a low simmer while you cook the linguine.
When the pasta water comes to a boil add a generous tablespoon of salt and the pasta. Cook al dente, following the timing directions on the package but checking the pasta to see if it is cooked through but firm to the bite a minute or two before the end of the cooking time designated on the package.
Meanwhile, a little at a time, whisk the butter into the broth. Remove 1/4 cup of the cooking water from the pasta and set aside. Drain the pasta and add to the pan, along with the clams and parsley. Add the cooking water you set aside if the mixture seems dry. Toss together and serve, passing a vial of olive oil and the pepper grinder for extra seasoning.
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